In the previous blog post, I extensively wrote about the background and materials used to create the ultimate down jacket. Now that the materials are all set, I'd like to explain the design this time around.
I also uploaded a YouTube video, so please check it out as well! The Ultimate Made-in-Japan Down Jacket, Born
Scouting the Competition
First, I started with market research, investigating popular and high-quality outdoor brands that are widely adopted by the general public.
The craftsmanship is impressive, and the sense of security and comfort, considering the harsh environments they're designed for, are such that you'd probably wear them every day if you weren't careful.
They're robust and practical, and many recent designs are suitable for city wear.
And considering their specifications, they're inexpensive. I'm about to talk about my designs, but honestly, if you really like these designs, I recommend choosing them.
Then there are designer brands. Naturally, they come in a variety of elaborate shapes.
There are creations by up-and-coming designers, and by veteran designers, each with their own appeal and varying levels of quality. Some even have exaggerated volumes, which are a feast for the eyes.
Outdoor brands focus on how to protect from the environment, while designer brands tend to focus on how they want to be perceived, so their initial intended environment and purpose are different.
Having completed my initial research, I re-evaluated the meaning and significance of creating something new in a world where these options already exist.
If I determine it's not necessary, I won't choose the path of creation. It's not about being cool; I simply don't have abundant time and resources for such endeavors.
Ideas and reflection. I often formulate my ideas while walking and pondering.
I'm not sure why. I only sit at my desk when I'm working to put those ideas down in front of me.
I've never been able to accomplish anything sitting at a desk. If I had realized this trait when I was a student, my grades might have been better.
As I delved into my experiences and pondered, fragments of ideas, stored in separate places, connected with a fine, strong, piano-wire-like thread of light.
I can do it. I can make it happen.
It seemed like one style wouldn't be enough in the beginning, so I decided to split it into two: short and medium.
This is because I judged it desirable to have options that also took into account compatibility with HLVTC bottoms.
The materials and sewing are impeccable. If the impression is still not good, then the problem lies with my design.
I've heard that a good designer is one who generates the most profit. Given the costs and target price for this project, I can hardly say I'm a good designer. I will proceed cautiously yet boldly.
Transformable Short Down Jacket
A length that pairs well with various bottoms. It goes well with today's wide and flare styles, and if you wear a long inner layer, it works with both sarouel and slim pants. I want a short length that can do all that.
First, I determine the overall silhouette. Then, I envision the skeletal structure and physique of us East Asians within that framework. To achieve an ideal silhouette, it's necessary to create volume in some areas and reduce it in others, shaping the angles and contours.
I feel that having been a hairdresser for many years, I'm particularly skilled at this kind of shaping.
As an aside, in our race, where the head shape is often flat, achieving a well-defined hairstyle often involves techniques that deviate from conventional theory, and many are critical of this.
I use any means necessary and disregard theory if it helps achieve a better result.
The beauty of a blueprint is irrelevant compared to the beauty of the finished product. While controlling the volume, I decided on the cutting lines and adopted a design with transformable features.
The double-front allows you to show off the accessory-like Excella zipper, or you can close it with Velcro to hide it. There are times when you want a hood and times when you don't, so instead of a storable type, I deliberately adopted both and made them detachable.
The nascent design looks like this:
It's a rough sketch at best, but it's a start.
Basically, I want HLVTC clothes to instantly improve the wearer's proportions just by putting them on.
I want arms to appear long, and I don't need enough volume in the shoulders to make them look square. Based on that, I create a toile before the sample.
Using temporary fabric, I check the volume, silhouette, and everything, and then make adjustments.
After making all these decisions and corrections, I hand over the data to the factory to proceed with the sample. Until the sample is finished, it's always a mix of excitement and anxiety.
Anti-Extreme Cold Combat Gear
Simply put, for extreme cold weather outerwear, length is a must.
And it should be a length that pairs well with HLVTC bottoms, working with sarouel, slim, or any other style. Let's try to adapt the 3D Ergonomic coat I made previously for cold weather.
I'll update it with magnet pockets on the chest that open and close just by inserting a hand, large hip pockets, ergonomically cut lines, and Dyneema paneling.
The rough sketch looks like this.
From here, I discuss with the pattern maker and convey the desired silhouette and other details.
The shoulder volume is reduced, and instead of the usual tapered shape, the cuffs widen slightly.
And the forward curve of the sleeves is emphasized to create impact.
The hood also has ample volume, designed to become a headgear just by wearing it.
The toile (a preliminary sample before the actual sample) that the sewing staff spent four days finishing is now complete.
It's hard to tell from the photo, but as it is, the zipper interferes too much and makes the chest pocket too small, so I'll adjust it.
Additionally, I'll fine-tune the silhouette and cutting lines to create the instruction and specification sheets. The factory, to their considerable inconvenience, will adjust the amount of down feather by the gram for each part.
Expected Problems Arise
During the sample production, I received numerous calls from Mr. Kobayashi, the president of Cluster, and the sewing staff.
I want to express my sincere gratitude for their careful and diligent progress while checking in with me.
Typically, garments are produced efficiently with different teams assigned to specific parts. For example, a team for arm parts, another for collar parts, and so on. This is common because different parts require different types of sewing machines.
However, this doesn't seem to apply to HLVTC's down jacket. I was told it could only be produced through "maru-nui" (one craftsman handling the entire garment).
This might be hard to convey, but it's quite an event (though I've experienced this a few times before), and the sewing cost per unit becomes staggeringly high.
The reason is simple: it has more than double the number of parts compared to a regular down jacket, and it's so complex that there's no other way to make it.
They also pointed out, "This isn't a mass-produced item." It's almost like a custom-made costume in terms of time and effort.
After many discussions about the structure and sewing methods, it took a full four days to sew one short jacket and about a week (!!) for the medium one. It's finally complete.
Sample Complete
First, the short one. I can't stop grinning; it's a wonderful finish that even moves me. I'll get straight to the explanation without getting sentimental.
The paneling and volume adjustments are almost exactly as I envisioned. The production version will be completed with slight adjustments to these.
I want the hip pockets to feel warm when you put your hands in during winter, so I used Octa for the lining.
I placed six internal pockets in total so that all basic personal items can be stored in the jacket.
The inner cuffs are made with CORDURA ribbing to prevent cold air from entering, and zippers are installed on the sides to open wide up to the armpits.
All effects—silhouette change, ventilation, and layering possibilities—can be expected.
Opening the high-neck part of the double-front reveals a large collar, which also has a face-slimming effect.
If the hood is bothersome, you can remove it. Of course, if it's cold, keep it on.
With these specs, this silhouette, and this design, we've created something we can proudly present anywhere.
And then the medium.
It's a magnificent sight. I am a designer, but also a genuine fashion enthusiast, so I truly understand its profound impact.
Once again, I've brought a maximum-power outer layer into this world.
I plan to widen the armholes slightly and readjust the sleeve section, including the Dyneema parts, and change the Velcro on the cuffs and the parts at the base of the hood, but it's almost perfect.
I am grateful to the factory for progressing such a complex garment without errors, and I am deeply impressed by their high level of technical skill.
Made-to-order production. The tag will include a lot number, and you will receive a garment with your unique number.
I want you to experience the real thing. This is all I can convey through photos and text. I'll release a video on YouTube soon, but once you experience it, there's little left for me to say. I'm confident it will resonate.
Rather, many HLVTC clothes don't translate well in photos; you need to wear them to understand their essence.
Ironically, despite being primarily an online business, they are unsuitable as a product for display.
Even at exhibitions, many people just look. That's why I want to say it loudly: please, wear them.
Otherwise, only about 30% of the effort that went into making these items will be conveyed.
That's why I hold POP-UP events as much as possible.
Since we don't have a physical store, that's the only time everyone can experience them. I'm aware they're not cheap, but they are pieces made with all my heart, so please don't hesitate to come and experience them.
We will hold a POP-UP event centered around orders for this down jacket in Tokyo on October 21st and 22nd, 2023, and in Osaka on October 28th and 29th!
Details will be announced periodically on Instagram and YouTube, so please check there.
See you at the venue.
HLVTC POPUP Details
Tokyo
【Dates】
October 21st and 22nd, 2023
【Location】
Joyful Eikō Mansion 1F, 2-5-22 Nakameguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 153-0061
Osaka
【Dates】
October 28th, 29th, 2023
【Location】
Taguchi Building 2F OBJECT, 4-6-3 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 542-0081